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we're doing SCIENCE! - A dye and colouring thread

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Post by Purple_Monkfish Fri Feb 06, 2015 7:05 pm

Duckiemonster said:

Plink and I have a bag of bits on the way to experiment on. We're planning on trying several paint finishes, methods of removal etc then throwing them in the dishwasher to see what happens.

Planned so far to try are:

Acrylic paints
Warhammer hobby paints (I *really* hope these work… I have copper! And gold!)
Watercolour paints
Bleach soak
Magic eraaaser
Paint brush cleaner
Sculpt/fimo augmentation


Anything else you want to see? Blog posts will of course be provided with results… and I promise Plink will not be allowed to laugh maniacally more than once a day
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Post by Purple_Monkfish Fri Feb 06, 2015 7:08 pm

The Hersey's Syrup Staining Test…

Before…

we're doing SCIENCE! - A dye and colouring thread  Makiesummer




The Hersey's Syrup Staining Test…

Before…


and

After…


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Post by Purple_Monkfish Fri Feb 06, 2015 7:08 pm

Shortncuddlyam says:

On a bit of scrap I scribbled with:
Watercolour paint (cobalt violet, maybe not the best choice ever)
Acrylic paint (a random blend)
Derwent watercolour pencil (Rose) - drawn then gone over with a damp brush
Derwent Inktense (Poppy red) - drawn then gone over with a damp brush
Sharpie (black)
Copic Too (a purple)
Copic multiliner (black)
Uni Posca (lilac)
Eyeshadow (purple)

Cleaning test one - cotton wool ball soaked in acetone based nail varnish remover
Watercolour pencil came off
Make up came off (I think)
Copic Too, Uni Posca and acrylic smudged all over, which came off, but there is still a strong colour left
Watercolour - trace of colour still
Sharpie, Copic Multiliner and Inktense - hardly budged

Test two - surgical spirit on a cotton wool ball
Cleared up the remains of the smudging but not much else

Test three
Soap and water
Watercolour - came off
Posca - some more came off

Test 4 - Swarfega natural
Some of my skin came off I think

Test 5 - StazOn rubber stamp cleaner
Making good inroads into the Posca, and some intro ads into the remaining Copic, Sharpie, Inktense and acrylic

Test 6 - Magic Color speedry airbrush cleaning fluid
almost got rid of remaining posca
turned acrylic a darker shade and removed some
Removed some Copic, Sharpie and Inktense

Test 7 - bleach on a cotton wool ball
No noticeable effect on the remaining marks
I'm sure with perseverance I could get the remaining marks off, and I'm equally sure there's stuff lying around I haven't tried yet
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Post by Purple_Monkfish Fri Feb 06, 2015 7:10 pm

Sioux says:

Sioux's experiment #1

we're doing SCIENCE! - A dye and colouring thread  Photobylittle_mooInstagram2012-06-3000-51-29

I had some open dylon hand-dye powder, so I put some very hot water in a glass ramekin and (not very precisely) dissolved some salt and dye. This is just to test colour behaviour.
The first links were fully submersed and occasionally stirred (as per instructions) for around an hour.
Nice and even. Lovely pastel shade. If I'd had a flesh colour it would look great!
The second is regular, untouched, Makie Nylon.
Nice and even, lol.
The third is the interesting one.
I suspended half the chain into the dye (keeping the other loops out of the dye - above the red circle) and also left it for the hour. Even though the links have minimal touching surface, the bleed was quite swift all the way up (although it does fade out the further it has to travel - hard to see in the picture but might make for useful creative effects at home)
The fourth black part are Makie Nerd glasses

we're doing SCIENCE! - A dye and colouring thread  Photobylittle_mooInstagram2012-06-3000-49-27

I hope to find out how much the dye has penetrated, whether a second bath makes it darker and whether it bleeds back out (even with the salt ‘fix’ ) and how removable/effected it is by other products.
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Post by Purple_Monkfish Fri Feb 06, 2015 7:13 pm

Poklfil said:

My youngest son helped me customise Millie's extra set of specs we got. Being that he paints his Warhammer figures all the time, I wrangled him into painting Millie's glasses for me.

First of all he spray painted a red primer using The Army Painter - Pure Red (but he said you can use any red flat matt spray paint for this. He then used Citadel Blood Red, which has now had it's name changed (as all of the 200 or so paint names at Games Workshop) so you are actually looking for Evil Sunz Scarlet He hand painted the glasses using that until he was happy with the coat. He then finished it off with a few coatings of Purity Seal semi matt but I'm sure Plasti-kote will work just as fine.

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Post by Purple_Monkfish Fri Feb 06, 2015 7:14 pm

Duckiemonster said:

Professor Plink has made available a first draft of her paper on Makie skin enhancements. Further contributions to the Journal of Makie Science are warmly welcomed!

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1jZ4SWJw6LFmOn1LE6xY_4qlXOhIXtD7EsfbyFkpH7yg/edit
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Post by Purple_Monkfish Fri Feb 06, 2015 7:16 pm

Early stage stain proofing by Sioux:

Halfords clear lacquer.
Two light coats.
These results.

we're doing SCIENCE! - A dye and colouring thread  7791857952_e791bf7170_c

…Two more light coats might do the trick (will be testing more in the future) but the stubborn stains were the water-thinned, heavy black acrylic line, and the water-dipped watercolour pencil.

Rikke adds:

Oh, I didn't let the lacquer dry at all or maybe just 5 minutes - so maybe that's why the washing-off result was not perfect, also I only sprayed once… My first tests were with the aquarel pencils (Derwent, I think).
But anyhow, I liked how the water color pencils were easy to apply - on face, I'm not sure how easy they are, will test that next. So first I used different shades of colors to create the desired tone and then brushed the color with water. Then I tested how they will wash off, so just rinsed them under the tap.
Some pigments wouldn't wash away completely - especially the blue and green sank really deep. I guess this is due to the different size of pigment particles, so it's worth testing on a spare part if you wish to be sure you can wash off completely.
More experimenting on the face next! Only if I would find the pencil box - it disappeared after I tidied my study… How typical. Smile

(sorry fot the poor quality pics, I also tidied the backplates away so cannot reshoot…Smile)

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Post by Purple_Monkfish Fri Feb 06, 2015 7:18 pm

I've tried 5 different teas - not just soaking but actually boiling them in a pot on the stovetop for 10 mins!! I also found it was hard to get an even color as the bits kept trying to float one way, so one side looks darker than the other side. I would imagine that they would have to be forced down in a container and all would need to be completely immersed.

Here are the results

Rooibos Tea- almost a yellowish Caucasian color- very light didn't keep much colour
PG tips- Gorgeous brownish tan Cinnamon colour- would love my Cosma doll to be this colour
Coffee - Instant Dowe Eberts - Darkish brown with a bit of a yellowish hue- The coffee seem to colour better as I boiled down the liquid to make it more intense.
Cranberry Raspberry Tea- Its pink so thought maybe turn it pink? HA not likely- just a hint of pink- hardly noticeable
Green Tea- Just a slight yellowish Hue

we're doing SCIENCE! - A dye and colouring thread  Tealegs

It appears that the caffiene is the major dye factor here in the tea dying (as the ones without didn't leave any colouring) Well I have proved one point at least that drinking the Non - caffienated teas are better for your teeth in regards to staining LOL
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Post by Purple_Monkfish Fri Feb 06, 2015 7:20 pm

Crystaltips says:

We're doing this science too, and yes - there does seem to be some effect on the bodies. My Alice doll has a loose scalp and floppy hips after boiling her (poor thing) for 15mins in PG Tips.

She's a lovely brown though Smile

(But the joints: we'll need to work on this. It's really the hardest thing to crack, and we're working with the best in the business on at at the moment…Wink)

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Post by Purple_Monkfish Fri Feb 06, 2015 7:21 pm

Chelseac says:


I've boiled a body in pieces (please note I'm talking about dolls Smile) and saw no effect in terms of expanding or contracting. I let it get to a boil, then brought it down to a simmer, and dropped the body bits in piece by piece. I didn't boil a head though, so no effect on the scalp–but I've seen Alice's doll and I know that it is a wee bit loose.

My color also came out a touch uneven, I think I should've stirred them around a bit while they were simmering and that might've made it more even.
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Post by Purple_Monkfish Fri Feb 06, 2015 7:22 pm

Poklfil says:

Ok, here are some initial results.
I was reading elsewhere on dying nylon wigs that someone used this Daler Rowney FW Acrylic Artist Ink. I thought a first it was an American ink as the blog was in the USA but to my surprise it's made her right in the UK and Freddy Aldous in Manchester sells it.
I grabbed myself a Flesh tint bottle to try out.

Here are the results:

we're doing SCIENCE! - A dye and colouring thread  Makieskin

A- I just used the dropper in the bottle and dropped straight onto the Makie skin in it all ooozed in and even came through on the underside.
B- I put four drops in the palette I decided to give it a go at full strength and this was the result.
C= I then diluted it by adding 4 drops of water and used one coat and this was the result
D- I then diluted a further 4 drops of water and used to coatings to get this result.
E- I did the same with the square piece and it all came out lovely and even.

Just a note on piece A- Which has air dried for over 24 hours, I rinsed it under water and there was no effect to the colour. I used a metal nail and scraped REALLY hard with very little effect. There were surface scratches but pigment seems to have gone right into the nylon so it was hardly noticeable. It also just seems to spread as you add it to the pieces, all over evenly. This would not be good for painting the Makie like face ups but perfect to create skintones methinks!
I bet if you used a airbrush and sprayed the body before assembling it would work out great. I would however just as a precaution give it also a spray of something like plasticote or Mr Super clear to seal it.

I now need to order some more Makie scraps as I want to try other colours!

I've found that if you add water to the ink it kind of separates within the nylon as it dries but it's like it is absorbed into the nylon. If used at full strenth there is no separation and it dries lovely and even. I'll take some more pix now they have dried properly.
I'm going to see what I need to dilute this ink as I think I shouldn't be using water

Right- Daylight pix after it all dried proper..

The most diluted - sample E - bit mottled

we're doing SCIENCE! - A dye and colouring thread  Makieskin1

and the underside- see how it seeped through

we're doing SCIENCE! - A dye and colouring thread  Makieskin2

Sample E again- you can see one side of the leg is darker and the pigment seemed to have separated from the water- it seemed to have seeped towards the joint too.

we're doing SCIENCE! - A dye and colouring thread  Makieskin3


we're doing SCIENCE! - A dye and colouring thread  Makieskin4


This is the least diluted C it's a bit mottle but not too bad

we're doing SCIENCE! - A dye and colouring thread  Makieskin5


we're doing SCIENCE! - A dye and colouring thread  Makieskin6

This is B - Brushed straight from the pigment bottle, nice and even good solid bond

we're doing SCIENCE! - A dye and colouring thread  Makieskin7

This is A - I used the dropper straight onto the nylon to see what it would do - You can see where I have scratched the bottle half after it dried it using a sharp metal nail. I really REALLY scraped hard- you wouldn't normally get a scrape like this from normal banging about! No white showing under the scratches

we're doing SCIENCE! - A dye and colouring thread  Makieskin8

and the underside- again you can see the seepage

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Post by Purple_Monkfish Fri Feb 06, 2015 7:28 pm

Kaitan says:

I decided to do a bit of experimentation of my own - I was a bit worried about boiling a Makie for an extended period of time so I decided to try a couple of non-boil options.

Here are the results smile

1. Pure Makie white - Just to compare with the others smile
2. Coffee - Strong, black and initially hot, this piece was left in the coffee overnight. The colour is fairly even and a nice shade. It was ‘Rapport’ coffee because that's what I drink, I assume other coffees might produce other shades…
3. Red Wine - Just because it stains everything else nicely! A cool purple-y colour and again fairly even.

The last three are my main experiments - FOOD COLOURING! All of these were done with Dr. Oetkar Natural Red food colouring, with the pieces left overnight each time. Hot from the tap water was used in each case. A spoon was used to keep each piece immersed in the colour.

4 - A few drops of colouring in just enough water to cover the piece in the bottom of a glass. A very subtle colour change, not too obvious from the photo, but it might be enough for some people.
5 - 3 teaspoons of colour in about the same amount of water - A bit patchy
6 - No water this time !smile Again, a patchy colour with the strongest colour around the joint areas.

Interesting to note that the red colouring produced orange results, I was expecting something a little more vibrant. I guess the other question would be how long the colour will last.

Anyway, thats my little experiment done, I'm off to try inks now Smile

Kaitan

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Post by Purple_Monkfish Fri Feb 06, 2015 7:29 pm

Kaitan adds:

Results with using red ink with thinners. As I mentioned above, most of the airbrushing sites that I came across recommend using alcohol for thinning. I don't have that around, so I headed out to my very-handy-dandy-just-around-the-corner Hobbycraft store and found Testors Universal Acrylic Thinner in their airbrushing section.

Here are the results of my first experiment - As before I've given an example of a pure makie white piece for comparison.

1, I started with just pure red ink in my pot, about 8 large drops. You can see my ‘scratch test’- That was done with a compass point, and I had to press really hard to make that impression.
2 - 8 Each square has 4 drops of thinner added to the mix each time. You can see the middle ( 4-6 ) section doesn't seem to change colour much.
9 I added another 10 drops to the mix to make a really pale mix that is almost a possible caucasian skin colour - needs a bit of yellow /brown to get a realistic shade. But it covers well and doesn't seem to pick up the ‘makie grain’ at all. I guess to get a strong solid colour you would need to do at least another 3 -4 coats with the ink so thin. The advantage (and disadvantage!) of these inks is when they dry they are waterproof, so you can layer them with no problems, but if the colour dries before you finish a part, you could end up with ‘overlap’ marks.

we're doing SCIENCE! - A dye and colouring thread  A4b53f21-160a-492d-9923-00d06e85f432

On to Ink Experiment 2!

This time, instead of thinners, I used white ink from the same range -

1 - This is 8 drops of white with just one drop of red ink
2-4 - As before adding 4 drops of white ink each time - the colour each time remains strong and solid.
5 - 10 more drops of white, similar results to the final piece in the last experiment, maybe not quite as subtle.

Thoughts

I used a paintbrush each time for both of these experiments - I'm wondering if a more solid colour might be possible with some sort of dip/bath so the colour hs a chance to really soak in. The practicalities of how you get each makiebit in and out of such a thing elude me at the moment, as does the thought of buying enough ink to ‘bathe’ an entire doll!


we're doing SCIENCE! - A dye and colouring thread  4f821340-f75f-4fad-9353-1a1903db99b7
Anyway there you go, I'll continue thinking about it, but I've run out of makiebits to experiment on at the moment smile
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Post by Purple_Monkfish Fri Feb 06, 2015 7:34 pm

Jakaherbie says:

RIT Dye Experiments - Take 1

Colour achieved by mixing Rose Petal Pink with peach in powder form prior to adding water, as this is the same way I recolour sun faded or “ghost” plastic doll heads.

I expected the colour tone to come out completely different due to the difference between SLS Nylon and Sindy / Barbie Vinyl, although is didn't hold true at all, it was identical!?

Limb was placed in a bath of boiling dye mix and stirred constantly for 3 minutes…

(Please note, I dye all my heads etc, a darker shade than I wish it to be as RIT Dyed dolls tend to fade slightly over the following weeks / months, again, my knowledge of this is Vinyl based only, so it will be a good lesson to see how this transfers to Makie Skin over time!)

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Rit Dye Experiment 2

Limb placed in cooler, weaker dye bath and stirred constantly for 1 and a half minutes.

Shown on right of pictures 1 and 2 and left in picture 3 …

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Rit Dye Experiment 3

This time I used a Liquid Rit Dye in Tan and the “stove method” - again the limb was in the bath for no longer than 3 minutes and again it was stirred constantly, before being removed from heat, then dye - this is shown on the left of each picture.

The Arm section, was placed in a weaker solution of the same dye, but not subjected to the “Stove Method” and again, it was submerged for 1 and a half minutes and stirred constantly.

In picture 3 you can see the difference between the Tan and Pink dyes - I'll be uploading a picture of all the dyed parts as a collective in a few minutes…

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Rit Dye Experiment 4.

Back to powder Rit Dye, this time in Cocoa Brown Chocolate.

Again the limb was soaked for 3 minutes (Worktop Method) stirring constantly - picture 1, piece on right and left in picture 2.

The Arm piece was soaked in a weaker solution for 1 and a half minutes, again stirring constantly - picture 1, left and picture 2 on the right.

http://stable.s3.makie.me.s3.amazonaws.com/pybb_upload/attachments/97e12b06-207d-4a36-9130-46bca739abc9.jpg

Here they all are together, so you can see the differences between soak times, and dye shades…

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And lastly, I thought I'd give spraying a go, as I had some Acrylic based spray paint I bought to use on another doll and it seemed a great way to find out if the colour's what I want and also, see how it works on Makie Skin, I only sprayed one side as I had an idea I'd like to try something else at a later date with this piece also,I only gave it one coat as I wanted to see just how well it would be absorbed, and I didn't think this would be possible if the entire piece was coated…

It looks hideous!!

But on the plus side, I have discovered that Acrylic based spray paints work really well on SLS Nylon, not mine though, as I didn't build up the layers like I normally would and the colour is pretty ugly which certainly didn't help! smile

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Post by Purple_Monkfish Fri Feb 06, 2015 7:40 pm

Jakaherbie adds:

I've discovered from looking at other companies that use SLS Nylon for 3D printing, and they keep the dye bath temperature to around 90 Degrees. I'm not 100% as to how hot the water in my kettle is when boiled but I think it may be slightly under this, if so, the “Worktop Method” of dying shouldn't cause the shrinkage effect … I was worried about the “Stove Method” though, so if dying by Rit, I recommend you use it in it's powered form and not liquid, also, make sure it is well dissolved before adding doll parts, otherwise small particles of dye will stick to the “skin” and make the doll look like it has a few varicose veins!

Also, for the “secondary dyes” I did of each colour, the temperature was lower, the first and darker dyes were “straight from kettle” but the secondary ones, it was around 5 minutes later and I added cold water, so the Temperature would have been significantly less, the colour is very similar though, only a hue or so difference, but I'll know more in about a week when the dye has time to fade - if it does on Makies Skin!!

For a more “Human tone” I'd go with the Rit, it should work out if you leave it to cool after making it up, then place the parts inside… (I used all my baths today on tie dying a top and the dye worked just as well cold for each one!) I think the thing with it is, it needs the heat to dissolve the powder, but once dissolved the temperature only has an effect of speeding up the dying time, so there is no reason why you couldn't dye parts “cold”!
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Post by Purple_Monkfish Fri Feb 06, 2015 7:44 pm

Kaitan:

During my research into dyes etc, I noticed some use salt, others use use acid (citric or vinegar) - These are used to help the dye penetrate the target material, apparently, although there are some sources that claim they are fixatives. Either way, the result is the same smile

I thought I'd see what effect they have on tea dying - you can see my results in the picture below. I made a batch of tea - Yorkshire Tea using 4 bags and about 3/4 pint of water. I left the bags to steep for about 10mins, took them out then popped the tea into the microwave until it boiled again. Then I poured enough into three separate bowls to cover each piece, adding the salt and lemon juice (citric acid) to two of them before I added the makiebits. About 1 tablespoon of each to about 150ml of tea. I left each bit in it's bowl for just over 30 minutes, stirring twice during that time.

The results !

1. The ever-present unaltered makie white for comparison

2. Plain tea - nice even colour

3. Tea with salt - The photo makes it look patchy but in reality its as even as the plain tea, and a darker, stronger shade.

4. Tea with lemon - another nice even colour and not surprisingly slightly more yellow.

Hope it's useful to somebody

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Post by Purple_Monkfish Fri Feb 06, 2015 7:47 pm

Kaitan:

Okay so I got Garyn last week, and after all my experiments with tea staining I decided to bite the bullet and stain him completely. I made a pan full of very strong tea and boiled it up, and basically put a dismembered Garyn in for about 30 mins. I didn't heat the pan while he was in it, but I did stir him up regularly. I discovered that not all makie pieces take tea stain in the same way, some parts came out darker than others - His thighs and arms came out darker than his head, body and shins. I don't mind it to be honest, but it's something to be wary of if you are considering a whole doll tea stain

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I was considering extra baths to even him up, but I am also experimenting using “Vanish” to remove tea stain from some of my other experimental bits. It's not total removal, but the colour it leaves behind is quite subtle and nice
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Post by Purple_Monkfish Fri Feb 06, 2015 7:50 pm

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Post by Purple_Monkfish Fri Feb 06, 2015 7:50 pm

Idye Poly (also repeated on a thread here)
http://makiecouture.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/more-science.html
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Post by Purple_Monkfish Fri Feb 06, 2015 7:53 pm

orchidsdesigns:


Ok, next experiments! Intrigued by the idea of dyeing a (future) Makie I tested some Makie scraps.

I tested Tea and Coffee. For both you can see the piece I took out of the dye-bath after only about 5 minutes VS the pieces I left in for a full 10 minutes, then I have shown a side by side comparison of the two different methods.

Coffee
I yanked that first part out after just under 5 minutes in the bath, it lost a tiny bit of it's saturation after I had a go with a dish-washing sponge/liquid, but not a lot - then the colour remained consistent. It's a nice very soft tint.

we're doing SCIENCE! - A dye and colouring thread  11114365334_18b2e77d32

Tea
My tea-bag dyed pieces seem nearly identical to the darkness of the coffee dyed pieces - I did however use 3 tea bags (was also dyeing some lace and fabric at the same time) - might have to try again with fewer tea bags. To my eyes the larger piece seems to have dyed with a “mottled” texture, rather than evenly saturating the pieces.

we're doing SCIENCE! - A dye and colouring thread  11114309745_2b8a5a7b25

Tea VS Coffee
In all honesty, my two experiments ended up yielding very similar results… perhaps the coffee-dyed piece just seems a tweeny bit more intense or evenly spread. The tea-dyed piece seems a little mottled. Coffee dyed pieces seem a TINY bit yellower, whilst the tea is more warm/browny. But only ever so slightly.

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Post by jupiternames Sat Feb 07, 2015 2:08 am

Dhawktx says:

A VERY strong solution of Black RIT, with hot tap water and allowed to marinate in a closed container for 24 hours, will leave a ‘rusty’ brown deposit on the nylon, which I decided I was quite fond of. Leaving the item in for more than 24 hours did not significantly increase the color deposited.

After reading discussions on the Shapeways forum, I actually simmered one batch and found that it took the dye so completely it seemed ‘dead’ compared to the rusty batch (remember, I was finishing chainemaille!). I would have to make further tests, but I felt that the heated nylon was ‘more tender’ and that the admittedly tiny links were more delicate than those that had merely been marinated in a hot tapwater solution that was allowed to cool down overnight. I would HIGHLY recommend testing this dye method with one of your ‘scr@p’ dolls before recommending it to members.

Also, you can hold the RIT solution for repeated use until you no longer get the colors you are after - my solution is several months old and still fine, waiting for my next batch to be worked on.

So, I guess shapeways may have dye info too, if anyone is interested.
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